HomeSafe and convenient ways to catch an hot-tempered vole in its home cage
The "primary handle" on the bank vole is its tail. It is around half as long as the body + head and it is not my impression that the vole is harmed in any way to be lifted by the tail, provided it is done gently and swiftly. Since tails come in various lengths and thicknesses and considering that voles can grow into some real big boys averaging 35-40 grams, one has to excercise some common sense. If the tail appears to be too thin, or short, for the procedure, I recommend Method 2 (see below). This secondary method is by the way excellent to handle particularly aggressive or stereoytyping voles. Method 1:Unless the vole-keeper succeeds quickly in catching the vole in its tail and transfer it to a clean cage, the typical bank vole will take to the same tactic, which can be divided into the following phases. Phase number one: The vole move fairly calmly away from the fumbling hand, which tried to grab it. Phase number two: Vole increases pace - make a couple of sham attacks against the hand and grind the teeth a couple of times. If the vole-keeper does not succeed within a minute or so, then the vole enters... Phase number three: Vole starts to dig eagerly in the bedding. Note: Voles are able to switch between phase number two and three with ease.. The time it takes a normal vole to go from Phase number one to Phase number three is around one minute. Phase number three is performed head first and when the vole enters this phase the vole-keeper just have to home in on a point on the tail, roughly two cm's from the base. After a firm, but still gentle (!), grip is secured it should be easy to lift the vole calmly over the edge of the cage so it can be placed in a new. It is important not to grab the tail too close to the basis since some voles can be quite adept in putting their hind feet against the fingers and, using these as a point of revolution, spin around and bite the handler. If the keeper holds too far down the tail, it is in my opinion too thin to support the weight without harming the vole so it is Not acceptable to carry the vole by the last third of its tail. A bank vole hanging by the tail will normally try to use it as a rope to climb up and attack the vole-keeper (normally after after 5-10 seconds), which is why it is a good idea always to have the replacement cage close by. If the vole is relatively big (> 30 g), it can't use the tail as a rope. Practical problem: Lets say the vole is a particular short-fused specimen (a stereotyper, typically) which it has taken quite some time to catch and then something happens which makes it impossible to put the vole down in its new cage right away. Solution: An experienced vole-keeper placed in such a situation can take advantage of the vole's build-in propensity to dig out of harms way when in trouble. Lowering the angry vole back in its old cage so it can make solid contact with the bedding will most often return the vole to Phase number three. Since this modus is obviously incompatible with further attacks, the situation is defused for a brief period. If a suitable container cannot be reached quickly the tail must be released and I strongly recommend continuing the effort to catch the vole, using method 2 below. Method two:Method two started out as an alternative but turned out to be a rather gentle way to get an un-cooperative bank vole transferred to another cage. Simply take an empty transparent jar (the ones intended for 3-400 gram marmalade is perfect) and close in on the vole while placing the other hand discreetly in the other end of the cage to prevent this route of escape. The vole will naturally try to escape, and voila - thanks to the jar there is a nice safe place with solid walls right in front of it. The instant the vole has both hind legs well inside the jar is the right moment to tip it upright and transfer the vole to the fresh cage (*). Voles do not jump up from the jar once they are onside, but if both hind legs are not safely inside when the jar is tipped the vole will try to back up. * Note: Especially with stereotypers this is a critical phase. Some act like popcorn on a hot pan when they suddenly is placed in an unfamiliar cage but voles in general use to lie completely still the first few seconds after being dumped in a new cage and these seconds is enough to place the lid. Closing remarks for the vole-keeper.First of all it is best for all parties if the vole remain calm and that imply that the vole-keeper always seek to move with calm and quiet movements. Second, you shall only take on a task as keeper in you genuinely like the animals. The literature shows here and there some real good examples on how an unpleasant keeper can influence the results in later experiments. After years with these fascinating little voles at least one thing is pretty clear to me: Voles are very susceptible to influences by the keepers/researchers mood. Whenever there were strangers in the stable, or even worse manipulations by foreign hands, then they acted much more nervous and instead of ending in Phase number three, they could instead jump out the cages. Thirdly, even though I practically never used any kind of protection in my time (gloves - breeding apparatus - spacesuit) I will advice you to use thin latex gloves when handling voles or dirty cages. If I should work with voles again I would place all the stereotypers in a separate room and always use some kind of defence against inhaling dust particles - provided the voles is not from a colony free of virus (see the chapter on various zoonoses among wildcaught voles) . Lastly it is important to realize that voles, even after months/years in captivity, systematically check the cage for weaknesses with regular intervals. Even the slightest crack can form the take-off point for some gnawing. It will typically take a couple of days for the vole to gnaw out into freedom and unfortunately for the little Houdini, such escape-attempts can be fatal in some cases or painful in others. A lid which is not placed correctly can kill a vole too when it tries to squeeze out underneath and get stuck. It is therefore a good practice always to have a couple of live traps placed along the walls - preferable loaded with grain, fruits or nuts. I made a habit of always checking my traps before I started my work, and it happened at least a couple of times each month that I found a rather annoyed and thirsty vole sitting there, looking up on me with its usual inscrutable expression in its face. Especially the UGGLAN traps are well suited to capture rodents on the loose - if one escapes during a cage transfer I sometime used the trap to provide a "safe escape" for a cornered vole.
Last updated the 19. November 2006
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